On Ikon Collection (and Q&A with Design Studio Bureau Borsche)

German Design

If you’ve spent any time on the internet in the past decade, chances are you’ve seen Bureau Borsche’s fingerprints. The Munich-based studio, founded by Mirko Borsche in 2007, started in editorial and cultural work before expanding into fashion, branding, and design. Along the way, it helped redefine the visual language of labels like Balenciaga, Supreme, and Rimowa. Worked for years with Nike Basketball, and more recently, making soccer look even better through different teams. Now, with the Swiss brand On, the studio is also reimagining the product.

Ikon Collection Part 2

Anchored by a sharp reinterpretation of the classic tracksuit, this second part of the collaboration keeps branding in the background, leaning instead into refined silhouettes, tone-on-tone construction, and technical precision. Details like woven “drip” effects on the track pieces and reflective trim on the new waterproof jacket echo the studio’s love for graphic tension. 

The  Cloudflow 5 AD comes in two matching colorways with a layered upper that carries the now-signature “flowing” On logo, a key motif that links apparel and footwear in this capsule.

A Conversation with Mirko Borsche

To better understand how the collaboration came together, Believe in the Run spoke with Mirko Borsche, founder of the studio, about the process behind the second IKON collection and where it might be headed next.

BITR: How did Bureau Borsche first connect with On?

Mirko Borsche: We actually started working together years ago, mostly on social campaigns. After that, they brought us in for other creative projects; we did a platform for Art Basel, and then it just evolved. They eventually asked if there was anything we wanted to do, and we proposed a shoe. Then they said it should be a full collection.

BITR: What was the original concept for the partnership?

Mirko: If you’re someone who runs or cycles, you often want something you can wear off the track too, something that reflects your sport without screaming it. So we pitched a line that blends quality with a looser, more street-ready feel. Still functional, but wearable every day.

BITR: What was the starting point creatively?

Mirko: We had a mood board, and one of the key images was a scene from La Haine—the three guys standing in Paris wearing tracksuits. That was the tone we wanted. Something cool, effortless, with heritage. If we could hit that note, we’d be in a good place.

BITR: How different was the design process this second time

Mirko: The first round was us figuring out how things work. This round was more collaborative, more confident. We saw prototypes earlier, worked on real patterns, and played with materials. That’s why the pieces feel more connected—because we were thinking about them as a whole from the start.

BITR: Anything in particular?

Mirko: Yeah, the rain jacket is pretty complex. The idea was to take the “flow” motif we’d developed for the logo and extend it across the entire silhouette, while working with waterproof construction. So we used reflective details, fully taped seams, and a technical outer layer. The design isn’t printed; it’s constructed into the patterning. It needed to withstand actual conditions while still looking like a design piece.

BITR: How did your team handle that challenge?

Mirko: We’re not outerwear engineers, so we relied on On’s product team to guide what was possible. But we pushed the concept. It wasn’t just, “put this graphic here.” We were asking, “how does the logo become part of the structure?” That’s why it took more time. We wanted the jacket to feel like it was moving, even when you’re standing still.

BITR: The Cloudflow 5 AD also looks more refined this time. What changed from the first version?

Mirko: On the first collection, we didn’t know how much we could actually change. This time, we worked on the upper part from the beginning. The construction is layered, more dimensional. The logo’s flow wraps across the shoe more seamlessly.

BITR: Was that technically difficult?

Mirko: Very. There are triple layers on the upper, and they all have to line up precisely. If you miss a millimeter in the front, you’re four millimeters off in the back. The curve of the logo made that even trickier; it’s not symmetrical, so the materials have to stretch and flow together naturally. We learned a lot between version one and this one.

BITR: Do you see this becoming a long-term partnership?

Mirko: We’ll see. There’s no plan right now, but if we find a good idea, we’re open. It’s not just about doing another release. It has to make sense. But the relationship with On is strong. Some of the people there are friends now. If the third concept is worth doing, we’ll do it.